Not much has been happening over here since before the pandemic and it’s not just writer’s block.
I’ve been a little more active on Instagram, but even there I’ve mostly limited myself to occasional stories (and at least archiving those in highlights) to briefly document what I’ve been up to. I feel the way we share (or the way we’re being nudged to share, ahem) has changed so much lately and short-form video has never been my preferred method of expression. I was never meant to be a TikTok or IG reel star, for good or bad. Not that I hate video, it’s just that at heart I’m more of a writer and photographer myself.
At the same time I would love a more personal and direct connection to my audience (you guys!) than my blog’s previous fact-focused format allowed. So I’ve decided to give it a go with a newsletter/blog hybrid with a more personal touch. Meet The Kashkaval Digest!
Expect monthly updates (no promises!) still dedicated to life and travel in Bulgaria and the Balkans, to regional culture, nature, food and experiences, but a bit less orderly and unpolished. Opinions expressed are my own.
So yeah, subscribe if you feel like it and let’s give this a go!
As you cross the scenic Kresna Gorge of the Struma River in southwest Bulgaria, you’ll enter one of Bulgaria’s most Mediterranean-looking areas. The snow-capped summits of the Balkans’ highest mountains flank the valley, hot springs emerge from the wooded foothills, while vineyards, cypresses and sandstone pyramids dot the sun-drenched lowlands.
This is Bulgaria’s California, as I half-jokingly like to call the Sandanski-Petrich Valley because of its warm climate and stunning natural diversity. Like the US state of California, this region is packed with adventure opportunities, cultural sights and breathtaking views — in other words, it’s the perfect destination for a weekend road trip from Sofia!
When and how to do a road trip in the Sandanski-Petrich Valley?
Because of the typically dry and sunny weather, embarking on this road trip would be an enjoyable experience during most of the year. In autumn, the Sandanski-Petrich Valley remains warm and welcoming well into November-December and the new vintage of wine is being celebrated. Even in winter, the lowlands rarely see snow and the scattered evergreen Mediterranean vegetation provides a welcome hint of colour. The region is gorgeous in spring, as the trees bloom a bit earlier than in the rest of the country and the old-growth plane trees throw their shade above the meandering Struma River.
In high summer, Sandanski and Petrich are known as Bulgaria’s hottest area, so you might be better off venturing up into the mountains than exploring the Struma Valley. Especially if you find temperatures of 35°C and above oppressively hot.
Getting to the Sandanski-Petrich Valley from Sofia by car is a relative breeze thanks to the Struma Motorway (A3). This modern motorway links the capital to the Greek border at Kulata. You’ll reach Bulgaria’s California in less than two hours through the Kresna Gorge, where the highway temporarily narrows to a single-lane road.
Renting a car through Top Rent A Car is an excellent option for this road trip
It’s possible to cover a few destinations from this list in a day trip from Sofia, but I would recommend dedicating at least a full weekend (preferably 3-4 days) to exploring the area. If you don’t have a car, you can comfortably rent one through Top Rent A Car. You could also consider renting one of their electric vehicles (we tested a shiny new Peugeot e-208), as the charging network in the region is good enough to explore without worries.
Bansko in southwestern Bulgaria is the Balkans’ largest and most popular winter resort, the premier skiing hub of Southeastern Europe. Bansko is totally worth a visit in the warmer months too — whether for a chill spa retreat, a remote workation or a more active and outdoorsy holiday. In each of these cases, staying at White Art Holiday Apartments is a wonderful choice.
The White Art Holidays apartment in Bansko welcomed us with coziness
The spacious (72 m²) and cozy apartment is located in the four-star St. Ivan Rilski spa complex on the quiet outskirts of Bansko. By renting a private apartment in the resort’s largest spa complex, you get the best of both worlds. For a small surcharge, you have easy access to the hotel’s extensive spa facilities, including both heated indoor and outdoor pools and an adults-only spa zone. And if you’re looking for convenience, you can take advantage of the hotel’s ample breakfast, lunch and dinner offerings. But you can also try out the traditional taverns in town, because you’re not tied to an all-inclusive meal plan.
The Rhodopes in southern Bulgaria are the country’s most extensive mountain range – an unfathomable expanse of coniferous forests, sunny meadows and countless summits around the 2000-metre mark. More often than not, the weather in the Rhodope Mountains is kind and welcoming in winter too. And on such a brilliant and calm sunny day, I set out above the snowline on my second snowshoeing experience with Top Guides Bulgaria. The target was Batashski Snezhnik, a somewhat remote and incredibly panoramic 2082-metre-high peak in the Batak Mountain part of the Western Rhodopes.
Snowshoeing with Top Guides is pure winter fun
Compared to my first ever snowshoeing tour in Rila, the day hike to Batashki Snezhnik was certainly a step up – both in physical demand and in satisfaction at the end of the day. We covered a distance of 15 km and we tackled almost 800 metres of elevation gain, which took us 8.5 hours, including the generous breaks. As expected for Top Guides outings, our group was small, so each of the six members was able to receive individual attention and personal tips on proper snowshoeing technique and winter hiking best practices, whether they were a complete beginner or an experienced snow adventurer.
Winter arrives early in Bulgaria’s highest mountains, turning the alpine landscapes into a wonderland of snow and ice. You might think the end of autumn also signals the conclusion of the hiking season in the Balkans — but that’s far from the truth. Rila, Pirin, the Rhodopes and the Balkan Mountains are especially alluring in their winter coating, and one of the most rewarding ways to experience this is on a guided snowshoeing tour with Top Guides Bulgaria.
Top Guides snowshoeing trips are a recipe for gorgeous winter mountain views!
I’m a seasoned summer hiker with dozens of treks in Bulgaria and abroad, but I only started venturing to our highest peaks in winter a couple of years ago. I had never tried snowshoeing, so in late December I booked a day trip with Top Guides to add a new skill to my trekking portfolio. I had a delightful day up on the slopes of Rila, battling the wind, basking in the winter sun and practicing my snowshoeing technique.
110 kilometres of Arctic trekking through the wild tundra of Swedish Lapland – that’s Fjällräven Classic Sweden in a nutshell. I participated in this inspiring multi-day hiking adventure in 2019 and in this unaffiliated guide, I’ll reveal all about my preparation and my experience of summer hiking on the Kungsleden (King’s Trail) in Northern Sweden.
Read on for details about the 2022 ticket price and trekking route, tips for your packing list, links to downloadable maps of the area and answers to many frequently-asked questions!
What is Fjällräven Classic? 🦊
Fjällräven Classic is a self-guided hiking and camping adventure with thousands of participants from all over the world
Fjällräven Classics are organized by the Swedish outdoor equipment company Fjällräven (famous for Kånken, those trademark boxy backpacks), so in a sense, they’re promotional events for the brand – but I found the experience authentic enough and not too commercial, and I don’t own a single piece of Fjällräven gear.
The Sweden Classic is the original event, taking place annually since 2005 – as of 2020, there’s a total of eight Classic events in places like Denmark, South Korea, the USA and Germany. The Sweden Classic remains the longest and one of the most challenging though.
In essence, this is a self-guided hiking and camping adventure with thousands of participants from all over the world. You begin in one of eight starting groups, you can complete it on your own or with friends or family – and you’re practically guaranteed to make friends with like-minded fellow hikers on the trail. You are obliged to sleep in a tent and you’re expected to cook your own meals and carry everything necessary on your back.
The event is by no means a race or a competition. Spending longer on the trail and revelling in the wilderness is encouraged, but you do have to mind the closing time for the supporting checkpoints and the finish (if you want to get a finisher’s medal).
Durmitor National Park in northwest Montenegro covers this tiny Balkan country’s most eminent mountain massif. As one of the most epic parts of the Dinaric Alps, Durmitor is a hub of mountain tourism and a UNESCO World Heritage Site of outstanding natural beauty. With its surreal cliffs, vertigo-inducing canyons, serene forests and mirror-like glacial lakes, Durmitor is a perfect outdoor destination both for leisurely hikers and hardcore mountaineering enthusiasts alike. And thanks to the legendary Tara River Gorge and Nevidio Canyon, this Montenegrin national park happens to be one of Europe’s top rafting and canyoneering spots as well!
From a pleasant walk on the shores of the captivating Black Lake to an ambitious summit attempt on the mighty Bobotov Kuk, kashkaval tourist presents 7 outdoor activities in Durmitor, Montenegro’s magnificent national park!
1. Marvel at a geological wonder: Prutaš
Marvel at a geological wonder: Prutaš
Although its 2,393 vertical metres might not be enough to make it Durmitor’s highest peak, Prutaš can proudly claim the title of “most attractive”. Not only does its summit boast what might be the most spectacular panorama around (with incredible vistas of the Sedlo Pass, Škrčka Lakes and the champion Bobotov Kuk), but the peak itself impresses with its shape and morphology. The twig-like vertical layers of rock that form it are unlike anything else you’ve seen!
Prutaš is
most easily ascended from Dobri Do (a scenic stop on the Sedlo Pass road) in about
2.5 hours of moderate uphill walking. From Škrcka Lakes hut in the interior of
Durmitor, it’s a strenuous, but not particularly technical hike of around 2
hours with a steep gradient practically the entire time. The shortest way up is
1.5 hours via Todorov Do (further on the Sedlo Pass), but this route is also
the most technical, steepest and most exposed. Even if you don’t hike this way
though, Todorov Do is still worth a visit for the most rewarding views of Prutaš’s
rock columns!
2. Gaze into the eyes of the mountain: the Black Lake
Gaze into the eyes of the mountain: the Black Lake
The Black Lake counts as Durmitor’s trademark and most recognizable natural sight – and with good reason, as nothing quite prepares you for the spectacular view when the shores of the lake open before you for the first time. In fact, to make the most of the moment, I recommend walking to the Black Lake on one of the marked forest trails from Žabljak rather than on the asphalt street. Whichever way you take, it’s an easy and light walk that would take not much longer than half an hour from central Žabljak.
The Black Lake (Crno jezero) is actually formed by two lakes connected by a strait that dries up in summer. It is surrounded by thick, mostly evergreen woods, with the imposing summits of Međed, Savin Kuk and Crvena Greda towering in the background. You can circle the lake and sample the views by following a delightful forest trail. Or you can just admire its colour from the lakeside restaurant.
You can circle the Black Lake and sample the views by following a delightful forest trail
If you’re looking tо do some more lake spotting, the hike further on the leisurely Mlinski Potok trail to the small Zminje Lake (Zminje jezero) and marvel at its emerald waters. Barno Lake (Barno jezero) is another of Durmitor’s “mountain eyes” that you can visit in the surroundings – this one makes for an impressive sight from the peak of Savin Kuk.
As part of a recent seaside camping holiday in Sithonia, Chalkidiki’s idyllic middle peninsula in the north of Greece, I spent a day cruising around the small but splendid Diaporos Island. The Aegean island’s dozens of sandy beaches, quiet coves and rocky headlands are surrounded by crystal clear turquoise waters and tiny islets – all yours to explore any way you see fit, you’re the captain for the day. Just bring some basic snorkeling gear to fully appreciate the Mediterranean’s underwater environment… and choose your own adventure!
Easy as one, two, three – exploring Diaporos island in a rental boatContinue reading →
Tryavna, located
bang in the middle of Bulgaria, is a historic little town perfect for a long
weekend getaway in every season. Boasting Bulgaria’s best-preserved (and most
instagrammable) town square from the Revival period, a strong woodworking and icon-painting
tradition and delightful natural surroundings, Tryavna is classic Bulgaria
in a nutshell.
The town lies in the valley of the Tryavna River, surrounded by forested ridges of the middle Balkan Mountains just northeast of the heroic Shipka Pass. As a true Bulgarian heartland, Tryavna and the surrounding regions of Gabrovo and Dryanovo are a fitting introduction to the quintessential culture and nature of Bulgaria.
Be it exploring the Balkan outdoors or treating yourself to a tranquil spa holiday, kashkaval tourist presents 6 things to do around Tryavna, an enchanting corner of quintessential Bulgaria.
The incredibly scenic small town of Koprivshtitsa might be the perfect place to experience the authentic Bulgarian spirit of yore. Tucked into the deep valley of the Topolnitsa River, among the forested hills of the Sredna Gora mountains between Sofia and Plovdiv, Koprivshtitsa is a true museum town and an architectural reserve. Just imagine the sight: hundreds of brightly-coloured Bulgarian Revival houses (danger: cuteness overload!) line the winding cobblestone alleys connected by little arched bridges.
Koprivshtitsa, once a prosperous town of well-educated merchants, is remembered all over Bulgaria as the birthplace of dozens of eminent writers and revolutionaries, including some of the leading figures of the Bulgarian Revival. In 1876, it was also the focal point of the epic and tragic April Uprising against Ottoman rule, a historic moment leading up to hard-fought Bulgarian independence.
Koprivshtitsa is one of the Balkans’ most beautiful towns
With its dazzling mix of splendid traditional architecture, dramatic history and crispy fresh mountain air, Koprivshtitsa is one of the Balkans’ most beautiful towns and an incredible journey back in time. So stay a few days, enjoy the hearty food and the strong rakia, delve into the local lore and explore the surroundings. But before you go, read on to get acquainted with Koprivshtitsa, the jewel of the Bulgarian Revival!
