Happy Orthodox Easter!

Thought Easter was last week? Think again! Bulgaria’s Eastern Orthodox majority celebrates the resurrection of Christ this weekend, on the night of 23 to 24 April. Due to the complex way the date of Easter is calculated each year, Orthodox Easter may be quite far in time from Western Easter… but it may be on the same date too.

So if you’re celebrating Easter the Bulgarian Orthodox way, enjoy a few days of egg fighting with elaborately painted eggs, feasting on delicious kozunak sweetbread and following many other curious Bulgarian Easter traditions.

Hristos voskrese (Christ is Risen)!

Happy Baba Marta!

On 1 March every year, Bulgarians celebrate the traditional beginning of spring with the arrival of the mythical Baba Marta (“Granny March”). The unpredictable sister of January and Fabruary, Baba Marta is honoured by the wearing of martenitsa (мартеница), an adornment of red and white wool threads.

On the first day of March, all Bulgarians gift their friends and relatives a martenitsa to wish each other health and prosperity. Baba Marta is an ancient pre-Christian tradition that goes back thousands of years and is perhaps linked to early Balkan farming rituals.

Typically, a martenitsa is worn until one sees a blossoming tree or a migratory bird coming back from the south for the first time. Then, it is lain under a stone or more often hanged on a tree, which makes for an unforgettable sight in parks and forests all over Bulgaria!

Kashkaval tourist wishes a happy Baba Marta to everyone!

8 imposing castles in Bulgaria

Because Bulgaria lies on a vital European crossroad, its history has inevitably been a string of battles and wars. Romans conquered Thracians, Bulgarians fought Byzantines, Ottomans fended off western crusaders, you name it. As a result, throughout the ages majestic castles and fortifications popped up throughout the Bulgarian lands.

And while few of these have been fully preserved, even those that have been ruined are impressive with their sheer grandeur. From the formidable medieval capital of the Bulgarian Empire to the Balkan version of a Disney castle, kashkaval tourist presents 8 imposing castles in Bulgaria!

1. Stronghold of emperors: Tsarevets

Stronghold of emperors: Tsarevets

Towering above the historic town of Veliko Tarnovo, Tsarevets (Царевец) must be Bulgaria’s most famous medieval fortress. For some 200 years, this spacious and well-guarded castle was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire. It housed the palaces of the emperor and the patriarch as well as Bulgaria’s most holy patriarchal cathedral and its dungeons were the resting place of Latin emperors and petty criminals alike.

These days, Tsarevets is famous for the Sound and Light audiovisual show, which relies on powerful lasers and searchlights to bring the historic castle to life to the tourists’ delight. Head to Veliko Tarnovo on official holidays (like 22 March, the town’s own holiday) to witness this captivating spectacle!

2. The beautiful headland: Kaliakra

The beautiful headland: Kaliakra

Kaliakra (Калиакра) loosely means “beautiful headland”, which happens to be the perfect description for this castle’s setting. Set on the steep cliffs rising 70 metres above the depths of the Black Sea, the scenic fortress of Kaliakra may have been briefly been the capital of the independent Principality of Dobruja in the 14^th century.

If you go through the castle gate and reach the very end of the headland, you’ll discover a picturesque Orthodox rock chapel. And if the sea vistas of Kaliakra have had you dreaming of a pleasant swim, then finish the day with a visit to the sheltered nearby beach of the Bolata Cove!

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8 iconic songs that defined Bulgarian music

With its influences from East and West and local interpretations of global musical trends, Bulgarian music offers a great insight into Bulgarian culture and even daily life. Indeed, it may be possible to illustrate much of Bulgaria’s recent history through individual songs, which is a feat even classic Bulgarian films may struggle with!

From a Bulgarian song that’s travelling in outer space right now to the embarrassingly nonsensical Balkan madness of chalga, kashkaval tourist and Ivan Tabakov present 8 iconic songs that defined Bulgarian music!

1. Todor Kolev – Cherno More (Black Sea)

An actor, singer and comedian, Todor Kolev was a leading figure in Bulgarian entertainment for decades. His personal attitude and quirky vocal interjections contributed to him building a trademark style that nobody has been able to replicate after his death. Truth be told, few artists have managed to enchant the masses the same way he used to do.

One of Shumen-born Todor Kolev’s classic hits has to be Black Sea, the merry tale of a transport worker who goes for holiday on the seaside. Enjoying the sun and sea, the character wishes his wife thought he had drowned so that he can enjoy his holiday time forever!

2. Valya Balkanska – Izlel e Delyo haydutin (Delyu the Outlaw has Gone Out)

A folk song from the mystical Rhodope region, Delyu the Outlaw has Gone Out does a great job of revealing the often incredible vocal properties of traditional Bulgarian singing. Dedicated to a semi-legendary freedom fighter against the Ottomans, this folk song sung to the accompaniment of bagpipes rose to international prominence in 1977.

At the time, a version performed by folk singer Valya Balkanska was sent into deep space as part of the Golden Record on board the two Voyager spacecraft. To this day, Bulgarians like to imagine aliens enjoying this piece of Bulgarian folk music and getting inspired to invade our dear planet Earth.

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7 unusual Bulgarian customs and traditions

With a millennial history and a wealth of cultural influences from East and West, it is to be expected that Bulgaria has its unique set of authentic traditions and customs. Just like the majority of Europe, Bulgaria celebrates Christmas and Easter as two of its primary holidays, and many of the associated customs like the Christmas tree and Easter eggs are also present.

However, a whole lot of Bulgarian customs and traditions are completely weird and even bizarre. From the entirely confusing way Bulgarians move their head to say “yes” and “no” to the ritual of dancing barefoot on burning embers, kashkaval tourist presents 7 unusual Bulgarian customs and traditions.

1. Chasing the cross into the freezing waters: Jordan’s Day on Epiphany

On 6 January each year, Christian Bulgarians mark Epiphany and the Baptism of Jesus, locally known as Jordan’s Day (Йордановден, Yordanovden), with some rather manly traditions that make use of the icy winter waters. According to one custom, a priest throws a cross into a river or lake and all willing men jump after the cross in a competition to reach and retrieve it. The saying goes that whoever catches the cross will be happy and healthy throughout the year.

Another Jordan’s Day tradition is the icy round dance. Rather than chasing a cross, this involves men dancing in a freezing river to traditional Bulgarian tunes. This custom is best associated with the town of Kalofer, though it has been practiced in other places as well.

2. Carnival against the evil spirits: Kukeri

Carnival against the evil spirits: Kukeri

While carnivals are widespread around the world before Lent, Bulgaria’s Kukeri (кукери) stand out with their scary costumes which look like they have come from an elaborate horror production. An ancient ritual to drive away the evil spirits, the procession of the Kukeri is celebrated either around New Year’s Eve or on Cheesefare Sunday, just before Lent.

The Bulgarian Kukeri are unmistakable thanks to their incredibly creepy masks, the huge bells on their belt and the costumes made of thick animal pelts. A great place to see the variety of costumes is the city of Pernik on the days of the Surva masquerade festival in late January or early February each year.

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7 authentic Bulgarian towns ideal for an autumn day trip

Summer may be rapidly nearing its end and the weather in Bulgaria may not be warm enough to hit the beaches or ascend into the unpredictable mountains anymore. However, autumn still promises some pleasant and sunny days and there’s every reason to get excited about a romantic weekend getaway or a diverse day trip to one of the country’s numerous holiday destinations.

From Bulgaria’s only fully preserved medieval castle to the town of roses and Thracian kings, kashkaval tourist sets the mood with 7 authentic Bulgarian towns ideal for an autumn day trip!

1. A hero’s home town: Karlovo

A hero’s home town: Karlovo

Spectacularly positioned at the foot of the mighty Balkan Mountains, Karlovo (Карлово) is a small but lively town in south central Bulgaria. Its extensive and fascinating old quarter with its brightly painted Ottoman-style buildings will send you back two centuries. And the Vasil Levski National Museum will provide a historical insight into the events of the era by highlighting the biography of perhaps Bulgaria’s greatest and most tragic national hero, Karlovo-born Vasil Levski, the most eminent fighter for an independent Bulgarian state.

Fancy a short hike and a snippet of what’s there to see in the Central Balkan National Park towering above Karlovo? Then follow Vodopad Street – literally Waterfall Street – and at the end of the trail you’ll discover the surging 15-metre Suchurum Waterfall, one of many breathtaking waterfalls in Bulgaria.

2. Bulgaria in a nutshell: Kyustendil

Bulgaria in a nutshell: Kyustendil

With its remnants of Roman baths, a medieval fortress, an ancient church, an Ottoman mosque, a mysterious tower and a picturesque National Revival quarter, Kyustendil (Кюстендил) is like a microcosm of Bulgaria in itself. Situated in the mountainous southwestern corner of the country close to where the borders of Bulgaria, Serbia and Macedonia meet, Kyustendil is a perfect day trip destination.

In the town centre, check out the impressive Pirgova Tower from the 15^th-16^th century and enter the vibrant art gallery which features the largest collection of works by one of Bulgaria’s leading artists, Vladimir Dimitrov, titled The Master. A brief walk up to the Hisarlaka hill will reveal a huge medieval fortress – and unforgettable views of the town below.

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Voyvodovo - an unknown Czech village in Bulgaria (book review)

Book review: Voyvodovo – an unknown Czech village in Bulgaria

After kashkaval tourist released one of its most successful articles, 6 places you would not believe are in Bulgaria, I was contacted by Czech scholar Marek Jakoubek who has been researching the unique village of Voyvodovo in northwestern Bulgaria. Marek Jakoubek is currently a professor of anthropology at the University of West Bohemia in Plzeň.

Jakoubek visits the village at least twice a year and is the author of a number of publications detailing the village’s curious history. One of his latest works is the book Voyvodovo – an unknown Czech village in Bulgaria (published in Czech and Bulgarian), which is a multi-faceted collection of seven articles and studies, complete with a fascinating personal foreword and a neat timeline of Voyvodovo’s history.

To this day, Voyvodovo boasts an architectural style more akin to that of the Czech lands and Central Europe rather than the Balkans

What makes Voyvodovo so special is that it was founded by ethnic Czech settlers in 1900 and to this day boasts an architectural style more akin to that of the Czech lands and Central Europe rather than the Balkans. Though the Czech community was resettled to Czechoslovakia by the 1950s, its architectural (and to some extent cultural) heritage is still largely intact – however, efforts to preserve this jewel must be undertaken.

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10 classic Bulgarian films you must watch

Hollywood’s repeatable storylines and empty blockbusters may be dominating the world’s movie theatres, but believe it or not, quality films have been shot and are being made elsewhere too.

Bulgarian cinema had its golden age in the 70s and 80s, when the state-funded film industry was tasked with providing entertainment for the masses – and did an impressively good job at it! And though Bulgaria is producing less films these days than in the past, quite a few successful and captivating Bulgarian movies have been released in recent years as well.

What is unique about Bulgarian films are the fresh and clever stories, the unforgettable characters and the atmospheric settings which give the movies a look and feel decidedly different from Hollywood’s style that relies on CGI and other visual effects.

From the tale of a plum-eating dolphin to the drama caused by a music teacher who sings terribly, kashkaval tourist presents 10 classic Bulgarian films you must watch.

1. “Gotta sleep for 10 more minutes and then I’m coming”: With Children at the Seaside (1972)

With Children at the Seaside (1972)

With Children at the Seaside (С деца на море, S detsa na more) is a charming collection of two storylines united by their setting at the Bulgarian seaside and the mischievous but honest character of Pipsi.

The first part revolves around a summer love story in Nesebar, a historic Bulgarian seaside town, and a group of kids who keep following the young lovers, hoping to catch a glimpse of the legendary plum-eating dolphin that they reportedly sail off to meet every day.

The second part involves Georgi Partsalev’s memorable character Uncle Mancho who goes to the seaside with his mistress, but is immediately caught on camera by Pipsi. Seeking to destroy the evidence of his affair, Mancho is forced to somehow take the camera away from the children.

2. “Why is this dog green? It’s a little crocodile”: Dangerous Charm (1984)

Dangerous Charm (1984)

In Dangerous Charm (Опасен чар, Opasen char), famous Bulgarian actor Todor Kolev plays a conman who seduces single women with his charm and intellect, robs them of their money and spends it all on mindless entertainment.

The police are following the conman in his trails, though his ingenious decisions and clever use of fake names (as well as completely made up Frank Lloyd Wright quotes!) pushes his plan forward… Until the conman himself finds love, or does he?

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July Morning in Bulgaria: the feast of the rising sun

July Morning, the celebration of the rising summer sun on the morning of 1 July every year, surely counts among Bulgaria’s most unique holidays.

Sparked by the Bulgarian counterculture movement that existed clandestinely under socialism in the 1980s, the celebration was named after legendary rock band Uriah Heep’s hit song July Morning. Remarkably, to date the holiday retains its authentic appeal and has not been ruined by commercialization, nor has it faded away after the fall of communism.

Each year on the eve of 1 July, Bulgaria’s youth and young at heart gather in nature (whether in the mountains or at the Black Sea side) to have a party, play live music and rock through the night in anticipation of the sunrise. The steep cliffs of the scenic seaside village of Kamen Bryag are a popular gathering spot, though impromptu parties are organized throughout Bulgaria. In the capital Sofia, for example, it’s common to celebrate July Morning at 1345 metres above sea level by the Kopitoto TV Tower on Vitosha, looking east over the city towards the rising sun.

And why, you might ask? To celebrate nature, to give summer a proper kick-off and to escape from the routines of daily life, I would say.

Happy July Morning and cheers to all who feel like celebrating summer!

8 unusual museums in Bulgaria

As a land rich in history and with an astounding architectural heritage, you may have guessed correctly that Bulgaria has a lot of historical and archaeological museums. And they’re mostly quite interesting, exhibiting artifacts like the oldest worked gold in the world or incredibly elaborate Thracian treasures.

What you may not have had a clue about, though, is Bulgaria’s list of unusual museums, focusing on curious topics that reveal the country’s image in a very different way and helping you complete the big picture. From the communist red star that once stood above the former Party House to the home of Bulgarian humour and satire, kashkaval tourist presents 8 unusual museums in Bulgaria!

1. Workers of the world, unite: Socialist Art Museum, Sofia

Workers of the world, unite: Socialist Art Museum, Sofia. Photo credit: Ivanov id, Wikipedia.

Opened in 2011, the Socialist Art Museum in Sofia’s Izgrev neighbourhood is a proper trip back in time to the five decades during which Bulgaria was a socialist republic and essentially a Soviet satellite. The museum features examples of socialist art, both on a grand scale and in smaller proportions.

In the Socialist Art Museum, Bulgarian communist leaders are lined up next to regular workers, Lenin’s head next to the huge red star which once adorned the top of the Party House in Sofia. Now, whether the red star was made of real ruby is up to you to decide…

2. Remember the milk: Yogurt Museum, Studen Izvor

Remember the milk: Yogurt Museum, Studen Izvor. Photo credit: Krasimir Mihov, Wikipedia.

Bulgaria has a worldwide reputation for the quality of its yogurt – quite deserved, in my opinion. And it’s only fair that the world’s one and only Yogurt Museum should be located in Bulgaria. The museum occupies a typical Bulgarian house from the 19^th century in the tiny village of Studen Izvor west of Sofia, near the Serbian border.

Why this unusual location, you might ask? Because the village is the birthplace of Dr. Stamen Grigorov, whose discovery of the bacterium Lactobacillus bulgaricus, which plays a key role in the production of yogurt from milk. The Yogurt Museum in Studen Izvor boasts exhibits related to the history of yogurt production and consumption as well as a showcase of the entire production process.

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kashkaval tourist

a tourism blog about Bulgaria & the Balkans

Category Archives: Culture

Happy Orthodox Easter!

Happy Baba Marta!